Derek Dunfee

Quiksilver Ceremonial Big Wave Event 2010

Posted in Surfboarding Photos/Videos and Media by Derek Dunfee on March 30, 2010

I made the alternate list for the Quiksilver Ceremonial Big Wave Event 2010!!!

here is the list of invites and altnernates:

Invitees:
Carlos Burle Brasil
Greg Long California
Mark Healey Hawaii
Chris Bertish South Africa
Grant Baker South Africa
Peter Mel California
Shane Desmond California
Dave Wassel Hawaii
Kohl Christiansen Hawaii
Marcos Monteiro Brasil
Jamie Sterling Hawaii
Danilo Couto Brasil
Gabriel Villaran Peru

Alternates in order:

Rusty Long California
Anthony Tashnick California
Nathan Fletcher California
Ken Collins California
Grant Washburn California
Garrett McNamara Hawaii
Jamie Mitchell Australia
Andrew Marr South Africa
Derek Dunfee California
Alex Carter Australia
Tyler Smith California

you can check out more info here: Quiksilver Ceremonial Punta De Lobos, Chile

Scientific fact: open ocean waves can reach 90 feet

Posted in Everything by Derek Dunfee on March 30, 2010

check it out:  freakwave.shtml

Lil Skip

Posted in Friends by Derek Dunfee on March 30, 2010

13-yr old La Jolla grom charging

‘ive seen people die from injuries not as bad as this one’

Posted in Everything by Derek Dunfee on March 28, 2010

Ive spent the past week in an emergency room, ICU and finally the office of a brain specialist. My brother Taylor fell skateboarding which caused taylor to have a bad head injury. Taylor hit the back of his head which caused his brain to slam the front of his skull, Taylor’s brain then started to swell and bleed.

The first hospital in Los Angeles was Brotman Hospital, and they were horrible. They didnt know how to deal with head injuries so they redirected us to another hospital 30 minutes away. Taylor was then taken into the LAC+USC emergency room where they did a cat scan right away. Taylor was in so much pain at this point that he couldnt sleep, watch TV or even open his eyes in a lit room. It took over 12 hours for taylor to get a bed and a room in the ICU, and he was in the ICU for 1 night.  Taylor didnt have health insurance so throughout the process we felt like they were just trying to get taylor out of the hospital in order to make more space or free up a  bed. At one point, the doctors even tried to release taylor without looking at his second catscan. They released Taylor and gave us some basic instructions to watch taylor.Pretty much ‘dont bring taylor back unless hes having a seizure.’

We left the hospital without any closure, so we made an appointment with a very well known brain surgeon in san diego.

The Brain specialist in san diego said ‘you are lucky to be a functioning human- ive seen people die from brain injuries not as bad as this one. You have a significant amount of swelling and bleeding in your brain, luckily its not getting worse and you will start to get better.” The doctor was shocked with how together Taylor was, and said ‘Now, its gonna take some time for taylor to feel 100% again,’

Lesson learned: Buy Health Insurance and wear a helmet if you skateboard.

Some more photos:

my mom sleeping on the floor, underneath the chairs

rookie nurse tried to put in a IV into Taylors arm

This is Taylors Brain. The white part in the top is where the bleeding and swelling occurred. Thats alot of bleeding

Todd Glaser portfolio on surfermag.com

Posted in Friends, Surfboarding Photos/Videos and Media by Derek Dunfee on March 28, 2010

T-O-double-D

My 2009 Billabong XXL winning wave

check out more photos at: portfolio_todd_glaser_surfer

Posted in My Photography by Derek Dunfee on March 20, 2010

self portrait

above the lip

Posted in Surfboarding Photos/Videos and Media by Derek Dunfee on March 19, 2010

Posted in Friends by Derek Dunfee on March 19, 2010

Looks like im telling a good story to Jensen Hassett on the beach at mavericks

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Posted in Everything by Derek Dunfee on March 19, 2010

Posted in Friends by Derek Dunfee on March 18, 2010

check out my friends website augustusthompson.blogspot.com